Getting around in Mexico (without hitch hiking)

While Mexico's public transportation is better than most of the United States, getting to rural villages can be very challenging without a car. My friend Elinor is leaving in a week, and she needed to get to the rural farming village of San Jose near the volcano to take some building measurements and conduct interviews.  Unfortunately the other volunteers were on the volcano with the truck, and we had no means of transportation. Elinor, Alicia, and I needed to figure out how to get their on our own.

We talked to Nick, and he said "Take this bus to the village Suchitlan and then you can hitch hike the rest of the way. The last bus out leaves at 2 and you will need more time, so you should just talk to the police station or town hall and they will help you get back some how. Worst case scenario, you can stay the night there."

I know that hitch hiking is more common in Mexico, particularly in rural regions. When going out to do field work, we will occasionally pick up a farmer trying to get down the road. But 3 girls hitch-hiking in Mexico just sounds terribly unsafe, and none of us felt comfortable with it at all. Nor did any of our parents.

 We discussed it and decided to get their through buses and taxis as inexpensively as possible. It was an extremely roundabout way, but it was a lot of fun.

1. Take a bus from the university to the supermarket Soriana.
   The bus system here is incredibly confusing. Each bus has a number and a few of the regions it is going to written on the front window, but we haven't been able to figure out the actual system. There are maps of all of the bus stops throughout town, but none of the numbers seem to correlate to the numbers on the bus.
   I remembered that Soriana was where you can get on a bus to the town of Comala because I wound up there while trying to get home from the vegetarian festival last weekend. It's worth noting that I took the wrong bus home and found the park/zoo/pool/museum instead.
2. Take another bus to Comala
   Comala is a lovely little town with a strong art culture and colonial architecture. This sweet little town reminds me of Antigua, Guatemala.
3. Find tourism office in Comala
   They told us about a bus that goes from Comala to Suchitlan every 30 minutes. They then gave us the name and number of a man who can give us a ride from Suchitlan to San Jose for little money. We waited at the bus stop for a very long time. Suddenly a large tour bus parked right in front of us (well..almost hit us), and we couldn't see any buses coming as all of the old people hobbled out. Elinor and Alicia finally asked a nearby taxi how much it cost to get to Suchitlan.
4. Take a taxi
   The taxi driver smiled and said "I'm about to take a man there right now. For 15 pesos each, you can ride along.
   While squeezed into the back seat, we asked if he knew the man who was supposed to give us the ride to San Jose. He then said "That's me!" After he dropped off the other man, he took us straight to our destination, which was about a 40 minute drive.

Getting to San Jose normally takes about 2 hours when we're driving the truck. It certainly took a lot longer to get there this way, but we managed get 3 people there for about $20.  I'm sure it would have been cheaper hitch hiking, but I'm glad we can live to tell the tale.

 We had a lovely time in San Jose. Alicia conducted the interviews, Elinor took notes on the materials and angles of the houses, and I took measurements on the length, width, and windows. We had to be careful to not discuss a disastrous volcanic eruption because we aren't experts and don't want to cause any fear. Several of the older women in the village invited us into their homes and one lady even gave us glasses of fresh-squeezed starfruit juice. 
 

Oh, and the return trip, of course.

The driver promised us that we would be in the village's center square at 3:30. As we walked through the village, we saw his taxi drive past us a couple of times, but it was another man driving it. We knew it was his taxi because there was a stuffed animal Mexican man holding a flag and a machete hanging from the mirror. That's memorable. 

As we waited in the center, nervous that he wasn't going to come, a pickup truck rolled up. Our driver got out, apologizing and explaining that his brother needed to use the taxi to get something for his wife, and he didn't return. He dropped us off in Comala, and we got back safely. 

Safety in Mexico

I recently had a conversation with my dad in which he told me about some friends in Cancun who felt extremely unsafe in Mexico.

I was super quick to point out that Cancun is a terrible representation of Mexico. If you’ve vacationing in Cancun, you have money, and those overpriced margaritas make it very easy for people to take advantage of tourists.

Snark aside, I recognize that my safety in Mexico has been a concern for many people who love me.  I also recognize that the United States has an extremely warped perception of Mexico, and I want to help end some of these stereotypes so that other students can have the opportunity to study in this beautiful country.

I feel much safer in Colima than I do in Dallas. I feel much safer in Colima than I do in New Orleans. I even feel safer in Colima than I do in Richardson.

Community

I think what makes me feel the safest here is the sense of community. Privacy isn’t really a thing in Mexico. Everybody acknowledges everybody they pass on the street. Because it is so hot, most houses keep their windows and doors open whenever somebody is home. After work, families will sit outside their doors, talking with their neighbors and watching the kids play in the street long after the sun sets.

I walk by a pair of older women on my street. I can barely understand what they are saying, but the tone of their voices makes it clear that today’s gossip is juicy. The culture here is very nosy. Like, church lady knitting club level nosy. And nosy is not necessarily a bad thing because they have no problem prying into somebody’s business when they need to.  I’m sure they’ve discussed the peculiar house full of Americans on the corner. I’m also sure that if they saw somebody following me or if I looked afraid, they would not hesitate to intervene. 

The population density is much higher here than in Texas, and every window is open. If I were to scream, I would certainly be heard.

Cars

At home, my biggest safety concern is automobile accidents. Yes, in Colima, the vehicle standards and regulations are less strict and nobody really knows how to drive. Maybe that bit isn’t so safe, but people don’t know how to drive in Dallas, either. 

However, a lower percentage of the population in Colima drives cars, and taxis cost about 25 pesos (about $2) to get to most places in town. People actually use public transportation. At night, most of the cars on the streets are taxis. 

Walking

I come from a land where people will get in their cars to drive from the Target to the Marshall's in the same strip mall. Don’t lie. You’ve done it, too.  When I arrived in Colima, I discovered this amazing mode of transportation called walking. No joke! People can actually travel from one part of town to the other using just their shoes! 

Really, though, the pedestrian accessibility here makes walking places feel much safer in Colima than in Richardson. There are sidewalks everywhere, and people actually use them. There are also plenty of paths that are only accessible by foot. I feel a lot safer walking around or going on runs because there are almost always other people on the sidewalks.

Unfortunately, bikers are a bit out of luck in Colima. No bike lanes and terrible drivers. I’ve seen a few very large biking groups, though. One of them easily could have had 100 people in it.

Guns

One of the more concerning aspects of Colima is the number of soldiers with guns. There is a military base here less than a km from our house, and you always see soldiers with guns along the gates. I’ve seen banks with armed soldiers guarding them and military trucks with 20 gun-toting soldiers standing in the back will cruise through town. 

As a human being who would rather not be shot, guns make me extremely uncomfortable. However, I recognize that a lot of the military’s presence through the city is in order to dissuade gang and cartel violence, the violence that is the main fear of Americans traveling to Mexico. 

I was talking to somebody the other week, and he asked, “Is it true that everybody in Texas has a gun? That’s pretty scary.”

So...how safe is Mexico?

Mexico is a large country with a lot of inequality, and my experiences are limited to small section. However, my experiences have only been positive.

Colima is a relatively wealthy region filled with people who take pride in their community and are determined to keep it safe.  As a student living abroad, I feel comfortable getting out and exploring the town. I truly believe that Colima is a great place for students and travelers to experience Mexico without being bombarded by the tourism industry, and I would recommend visiting Colima to anybody.   

I also cannot ignore that there is violence and gang activity going on in the background in Colima, just as there is plenty of drug-fueled violence in DFW that I have never witnessed from my comfortable corner in Richardson. It’s important to be aware that this exists, but I believe that it can easily be avoided by obeying the law and exercising common sense.

A level of danger exists to anybody visiting a country where he or she looks foreign and cannot speak the language. Should this keep anybody from traveling? Absolutely not. I even believe that Colima is safer than many cities that are more accessible to foreigners.  Because tourism is so uncommon here, there not much to gain from taking advantage of tourists.

I can’t speak for all of Mexico. There are good parts and bad parts. The sleepy little town of Jala, Nayarit, seemed as safe as can be, and I felt very comfortable walking around Valle de Santiago, Guanajuato, with other students at night.  I’ve also heard plenty of people tell me, “The Michoacán coast is the most beautiful in all of Mexico, but you can’t go there anymore because it’s too dangerous.” Juarez isn’t exactly a top tourist destination right now, either.

I don't think I can properly assess the danger of a foreign region without accepting the danger that exists within my home. In the state of Colima (including the Michoacán border) during its most dangerous year, 2012, the murder rate was 0.38 per 1000.  This murder rate was high enough to give Colima a United States travel advisory warning. In comparison, the murder rate in New Orleans is 0.53 per 1000, yet I’m quick to tell anybody that it’s the best city in the United States and they absolutely must visit it.  

I want to encourage everybody to go ahead an book that trip to Mexico. Travel off the beaten path. It’s a beautiful country filled with warm people, rich history, and fascinating geology. There are dangers that travelers should be aware of, but they should be fine in most regions if they avoid places that the local population avoids and exercise caution as if they were in a city in the United States. 

I still carry a little knife in my bag, but its sole purpose is to peel mangoes I find hanging over the sidewalks.

Things I've learned in Mexico

1. Lime, salt, and chili belong on everything.
2. Air conditioning in 96 degree, 70% humidity weather isn’t a necessity
3. But it is possible to sweat 24/7
4. Vegetarians in Mexico are a joke.
5. But attempting to be vegetarian in Mexico will result in “queso” being the most dreaded word in your vocabulary.
6. And if you’re vegetarian, and don’t like extreme levels of sugar or white bread, you might starve.
7. It’s totally normal to cram 15 people into the bed of a truck.
8. If you do choose to ride in the bed of a truck on cobblestone roads, bring a pillow.
9. People in the United States may be more into extremely spicy Mexican food than people in Mexico are.
10. And big burritos...those aren't actually a Mexican thing.
11. Geckos in your house are good luck because they eat mosquitoes.
12. Elementary schools here get cool mascots, like volcanos.
13. Homeless shelters and aid for the homeless are much less common here. Always be generous. 
14. Encountering ranchers riding through the forest with a shotgun and a machete is a totally normal thing during field work. We probably look just as strange staring at what looks like a puddle with our pH meter.
15. If you thought that Pitbull was in too much music in the United States, just listen to popular Mexican radio for 15 minutes.
16. Mariachi music videos put every other sappy music video to shame.
17. Random old guys, like the juice vendor on the street or the cashier at the convenience store may be very quick to tell you you’re beautiful. OHH so beautiful. They’re really not trying to hit on you, just being nice. Smile, say “gracias,” and believe that they are sincere.Even if it feels creepy, life is a lot easier if you just accept the compliment.
18. The two most common questions from taxi drivers are "where are you from?" and "Do you like Mexican boys?"
19. I was warned about street harassment before I came here, and I’m bothered far less by it here than I am at home. Yes, girls get honked at and hollered at a lot here, but it is usually just a “hola” or a guy trying to show off his English to me. In Texas and Louisiana, street harassment feels far more threatening.
20.   College aged Mexican boys, though, are super respectful and a bit embarrassed by the behavior of some of the older men.
21. Women have a really high standard of beauty here. Everybody is gorgeous and puts a lot of work into their appearance. I have no idea how every other girl manages to look fabulous constantly while I'm just drenched in sweat.
22. A bottle of water and a cerveza may be the same price at a restaurant. Choose carefully.
23. Walmart is the place to go buy exotic foods, like broccoli and celery, but local produce is always better from the frutaria down the road.
24. Drink all the fresh squeezed juice you can, because that stuff is way too pricey in the States.
25. If you try to buy a glass bottle of coke and don't bring in an empty glass bottle to exchange, the cashier will pour it into a plastic bag and give you a straw. I believe it works the same way with beer.
26. Mexico gives off some vibes that remind me so much of New Orleans. I think it’s the friendly culture and the architecture.
27. At about 9:00 every night, a man walks by our house, screaming at the top of his lungs. We don't actually know what he is saying, but he is selling bread. We call him "Tortured Bread Man."
28. Always ask for no or only a little bit of sugar added to mixed drinks and smoothies. Mexico will go way overboard. 
29. Musicians will get on buses, sing or play guitar, walk through the aisle collecting money, and then get off. This is normal.
30. Be weary when ordering coffee. They may bring you a cup of hot water and a container of instant coffee. 
31. If Maestro XS asks to kiss your cheek, just know that he won't let go for an uncomfortable amount of time.  
32. All of the parks have free wifi!

Volcano flights

Great experiences are often preceded by very poor decisions. For example, roadside ceviche.  But the coolest and stupidest experience of my life occurred yesterday, when I climbed into a six-passenger airplane and flew into the plume of a degassing volcano.

A group of volunteers generally goes on these flights whenever we have 5 people willing to pay. We fly over Volcan de Colima with a thermal camera and a normal DSLR so we can compare the images over time. I was responsible for the photographs on this flight.

It’s worth noting that I have a mild fear of heights and get nervous in propeller planes. But this is for science. 

We arrived at the airport and were greeted by a pilot. I didn’t learn this until today, but it turns out that he was Nick’s friend, who normally does these flights. He handed us off to another man, the only one not in a formal pilot uniform. This man, I later learned, had never done a volcano flight before.

All six of us climbed into the plane and took off. It was rather relaxing, getting to fly over Colima and the surrounding mountains. What a great pilot, I (incorrectly) thought.

 Then I heard “Is that a fumarole!?” A large fume was ascending from Volcan de Colima. 

 

There are certain questions that pilots should never ask their passengers. “Is it safe to fly into the smoke?” is one of those questions.

Haley was sitting in the front, and she could not speak any Spanish. Alicia, in the back, began translating between them, but the pilot could not hear her. Regardless, “no” is the same in both languages.

Alicia later told us that he said “It’s okay. If the engine dies we can just glide back to the airport.”

Thus, we headed for the degassing volcano, and it was awesome. As we circled around, we opened up the icy window and stuck out heads out to get good data.  This was definitely the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen. This was also, apparently, the closest any group has flown over the volcano. And it was acting up as we did it.

When we landed, we saw a large explosion from the volcano. I am so thankful that we were not flying over it when that happened.

We are certainly blessed to be alive, but we are doubly-blessed to have these photos.